Sewing Term Glossary

Learning these basic terms is the first step to a rewarding hobby.

Sewing, whether to create a new garment or to alter an existing garment, is a simple task. To begin, you should familiarize yourself with a few basic terms.

Air Permeability: measures warmth, air resistance, and wind resistance of fabric based on porosity. Alterations: adjustments in a garment's size. Garments can be made larger or smaller, i.e., altered, by adding or removing darts, taking in or letting out seams, or raising or lowering the hemline. Armscye: armhole. Backstitch: a few stitches taken back and forth to anchor the start and finish of seams. Basting: using a temporary stitch to hold pieces of fabric together. Blind Hem: an invisible hemline made by securing the hem fold to one fabric thread. Butting: bringing edges together without overlapping. Darning: using a back-and-forth stitch to repair a hole.

• Easing: fitting a larger fabric length to a smaller length without gathers or puckers.
• Folding: creating two layers of fabric so that two identical pieces are cut at once, or one large piece is cut without a center seam.
• French Seam: a seam that is stitched, turned and re-stitched to hide raw edges.
• Gathering: fitting a large length of fabric to a smaller length.
• Gusset: fabric added to a seam to increase measurements.
• Hem: the lower garment edge that is finished by turning under and stitching in place.
• Interfacing: used between fabric layers to stabilize material.
• Narrow Hem: a hem of 1/4-inch of less, used on lingerie, napkins, and men's shirts.
• Off-pressing: pressing a garment after sewing is completed.
• Overstitching: stitching over a seam in order to prevent raveling.
• Pintuck: narrow, decorative rows that create a raised look.
• Pressing: setting iron on fabric without a back-and-forth movement.
• Reinforced Seam: a second row of stitching right next to the first row.
• Running Stitch: a stitch that runs over and under the fabric, often used to baste.
• Satin Stitch: a very close zigzag stitch.
• Seam Allowance: fabric between the seam and the fabric's edge.
• Selvage: manufacturer's finished edge that does not fray.
• Separating Zipper: a zipper that comes apart when unzipped.
• Stay Stitch: a stabilizing stitch placed inside the permanent stitching.
• Stitch Length: approximately 6 stitches per inch for basting; 10-12 stitches for regular seams.
• Tack: a small stitch used to hold material together temporarily.
• Topstitching: a decorative and functional stitch placed ¼-inch from the seam.
• Understitching: a stitch placed 1/8-inch from the seam to keep linings or facings from rolling.
• Zigzag: a two-directional stitch used for knits, to finish seams, and to prevent raveling.
• Zipper: used as a closure for skirts, dresses, pants, and outerwear; sold in assorted colors, lengths and widths.