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Sewing Terms

Learning these basic terms is the first step to a rewarding hobby.

Sewing, whether to create a new garment or to alter an existing garment, is a simple task. To begin, you should familiarize yourself with a few basic terms.

Lamont Double Mobile Desk
  • Air Permeability: measures warmth, air resistance, and wind resistance of fabric based on porosity.
  • Alterations: adjustments in a garment's size. Garments can be made larger or smaller, i.e., altered, by adding or removing darts, taking in or letting out seams, or raising or lowering the hemline.
  • Armscye: armhole.
  • Backstitch: a few stitches taken back and forth to anchor the start and finish of seams.
  • Basting: using a temporary stitch to hold pieces of fabric together.
  • Blind Hem: an invisible hemline made by securing the hem fold to one fabric thread.
  • Butting: bringing edges together without overlapping.
  • Darning: using a back-and-forth stitch to repair a hole.

  • Easing: fitting a larger fabric length to a smaller length without gathers or puckers.
  • Folding: creating two layers of fabric so that two identical pieces are cut at once, or one large piece is cut without a center seam.
  • French Seam: a seam that is stitched, turned and re-stitched to hide raw edges.
  • Gathering: fitting a large length of fabric to a smaller length.
  • Gusset: fabric added to a seam to increase measurements.
  • Hem: the lower garment edge that is finished by turning under and stitching in place.
  • Interfacing: used between fabric layers to stabilize material.
  • Narrow Hem: a hem of 1/4-inch of less, used on lingerie, napkins, and men's shirts.
  • Off-pressing: pressing a garment after sewing is completed.
  • Overstitching: stitching over a seam in order to prevent raveling.
  • Pintuck: narrow, decorative rows that create a raised look.
  • Pressing: setting iron on fabric without a back-and-forth movement.
  • Reinforced Seam: a second row of stitching right next to the first row.
  • Running Stitch: a stitch that runs over and under the fabric, often used to baste.
  • Satin Stitch: a very close zigzag stitch.
  • Seam Allowance: fabric between the seam and the fabric's edge.
  • Selvage: manufacturer's finished edge that does not fray.
  • Separating Zipper: a zipper that comes apart when unzipped.
  • Stay Stitch: a stabilizing stitch placed inside the permanent stitching.
  • Stitch Length: approximately 6 stitches per inch for basting; 10-12 stitches for regular seams.
  • Tack: a small stitch used to hold material together temporarily.
  • Topstitching: a decorative and functional stitch placed ᄐ-inch from the seam.
  • Understitching: a stitch placed 1/8-inch from the seam to keep linings or facings from rolling.
  • Zigzag: a two-directional stitch used for knits, to finish seams, and to prevent raveling.
  • Zipper: used as a closure for skirts, dresses, pants, and outerwear; sold in assorted colors, lengths and widths.

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